How To Tow A Non-Running Vehicle With A Rented Car Hauler

A local tow truck quote for a 10-mile move to the garage typically runs $75–$250. For a 30- or 50-mile haul, that number climbs considerably higher. Most of that cost is labor and markup on a job that, with the right trailer and a couple of hours, is manageable for anyone with a capable tow vehicle and a friend to help. A car hauler trailer rental typically costs $100–$175 for the day. Done correctly, it gets a non-running vehicle to the garage safely at a fraction of the tow service cost. This guide covers everything from booking the right trailer through dropping the car at the garage — written for someone doing this for the first time.

Car Hauler or Flatbed: Which Trailer You Need

Car hauler trailer: the right tool for most non-running vehicle moves

A car hauler trailer is purpose-built for vehicle transport. The tilt deck lowers to the ground at the rear, creating a shallow ramp angle that lets a car roll or winch onto the deck without needing significant clearance. Most car hauler rentals include a winch mounted at the front of the deck — the cable attaches to the non-running vehicle's frame or tow hook and pulls it up without engine power. Wheel strap tie-downs are typically included.

Before booking, confirm two specs against the vehicle you're moving: the trailer's maximum vehicle weight rating and its deck length. Most car haulers are rated for vehicles up to 4,500–5,500 lbs and accommodate vehicles up to 18–19 ft long — adequate for standard passenger cars. Larger trucks and SUVs may push those limits. Confirm with the rental partner if you're unsure.

• Tilt deck: lowers to ground at the rear for shallow-angle loading — no need for high ground clearance
• Winch: confirm it's included at booking — the winch is what makes this possible without a running engine
• Weight rating: confirm the trailer's maximum vehicle weight against the non-running vehicle's curb weight before booking
• Deck length: most car haulers fit vehicles up to 18–19 ft — confirm for trucks and full-size SUVs

When to choose a flatbed trailer instead

A flatbed trailer is the better choice when the non-running vehicle is too wide or too long for a standard car hauler, when a lifted truck or SUV has suspension height that conflicts with the car hauler's wheel-well clearance or when ramp loading is preferred over tilt-deck loading. Flatbeds don't tilt — confirm that ramps are included with the rental or bring your own. Most flatbeds don't include a built-in winch, so if the vehicle can't be pushed to the ramp, bring a hand winch or come-along for the pull.

• Right for: oversized vehicles, lifted trucks with high suspension, situations where ramp loading suits the vehicle's condition better
• Ramps required: flatbed doesn't tilt — confirm ramps are included or bring your own
• Winch: not typically included on flatbeds — bring a hand winch or come-along for a non-running vehicle

What Your Tow Vehicle Needs

The weight math: three numbers that have to add up

Before booking, look up three numbers: your tow vehicle's towing capacity, the rental trailer's weight and the non-running vehicle's curb weight. Your tow vehicle's rated towing capacity is in the owner's manual or on the manufacturer's website — look up the specific configuration, since engine size, cab style and bed length all affect the rating. The rental trailer's weight is listed in the rental listing or on the trailer's VIN plate. The non-running vehicle's curb weight takes a quick search of the year, make and model.

Trailer weight plus non-running vehicle weight must be less than your tow vehicle's rated towing capacity — with margin. A half-ton pickup rated for 8,500 lbs handles a 3,000-lb trailer carrying a 3,500-lb car (6,500 lbs combined) comfortably. That same truck towing a 3,000-lb trailer with a 5,000-lb truck on it (8,000 lbs combined) is near its limit. On your first time towing, keep the loaded combination at least 20% below the rated maximum. For a deeper look at how towing capacity works, see our vehicle towing capacity guide.

• Tow vehicle capacity: owner's manual or manufacturer website — use the specific configuration, not a generic truck class estimate
• Non-running vehicle curb weight: search "[year] [make] [model] curb weight" — use the higher end of the range if multiple trims exist
• First-timer margin: stay at least 20% under the tow vehicle's maximum rated capacity on your first haul
• If the numbers don't add up: the rental approach doesn't work for this combination — see the "when to call a tow truck" section below

Hitch and electrical connection

Most car hauler trailers use a standard 2-in ball hitch coupler. Confirm your tow vehicle has a 2-in ball installed and that the ball mount positions it at approximately the right height — the trailer coupler should sit roughly level when connected, not angling sharply up or down. A steep angle affects how the trailer tracks behind the vehicle and puts uneven stress on the hitch.

The trailer also needs an electrical connection for brake lights and turn signals. Most car haulers use a 4-pin flat connector; some larger trailers with electric brakes use a 7-pin connector. Check which type the rental trailer uses and confirm your tow vehicle has a matching socket before the rental day. A $10–$15 adapter from any auto parts store solves a mismatch — buy it ahead of time. For a full explanation of connector types, see our guide on trailer plug types. For a step-by-step walkthrough of connecting a trailer to your vehicle, see how to hook up a trailer.

• Ball size: 2-in ball required for most car haulers — confirm it's installed before arriving to pick up the trailer
• Ball height: coupler should sit approximately level when connected — steep angle affects tracking and stresses the hitch
• 4-pin vs. 7-pin: confirm which connector the trailer uses; buy an adapter before the rental day if your vehicle has the other type
• Safety chains: required in every state — cross them under the coupler in an X pattern; don't let them drag on the road

Preparing the Non-Running Vehicle for Loading

Three things to set before the car moves

A non-running vehicle won't roll onto a trailer unless three things are set correctly. First, put the transmission in neutral — the vehicle can't roll and the winch can't pull it in park or in any drive gear. On an automatic transmission, turn the ignition to the accessory position if you need to move the shift lever without a running engine. On a manual, push the shifter to neutral directly. Second, release the parking brake fully — a car with the parking brake engaged won't roll regardless of what gear it's in. Third, straighten the front wheels as much as possible — a car with turned wheels will track sideways up the ramp and risk sliding off the deck edge during loading. Get them straight and keep them there during the winch pull.

• Neutral: transmission must be in neutral — automatic or manual; the winch cannot pull a car in park or in gear
• Parking brake: must be fully released before any rolling attempt
• Wheels: straighten before loading — angled wheels cause the car to track sideways up the ramp
• Key position: turn to accessory position on automatics if needed to move the shift lever without a running engine

What surprises first-timers: no power brakes, no power steering

A non-running vehicle has no engine vacuum, which means no power brake assist and no power steering assist. The brake pedal requires significantly more foot pressure than a running car — the pedal feels stiff and hard rather than responsive. The steering wheel requires real physical effort to turn. Neither of these prevents loading, but both catch first-timers off-guard when pushing the car into position near the trailer.

The practical implication: get the car's alignment with the trailer established before you need fine steering control, and have at least one other person available to help push and guide during approach. One person manages the winch; the other guides the car and watches the alignment as it comes up. Never stand behind a non-running car on a slope — it can move faster than you expect, and without engine braking or power assist, stopping it requires real force.

• No power brakes: brake pedal requires much more force than normal — not a problem during loading, but know it before positioning
• No power steering: steering requires real effort — straighten wheels before approach and minimize steering input during the winch pull
• Two people required: one on the winch, one guiding and watching alignment — don't attempt loading a non-running vehicle solo
• Slope safety: never stand behind a non-running car on any grade — it can roll faster than you can react

Loading the Vehicle

Positioning the trailer and using the winch

Set the trailer up on the flattest, firmest ground available. Loading on a slope or soft surface creates instability during the winch pull — if the trailer isn't stable, it can shift or the car can slide when tension is applied. Engage the tilt mechanism to lower the rear of the deck to the ground, and lower any jack stand if the trailer has one. If the trailer has wheel chocks, place them under the trailer tires before loading.

Roll or push the non-running vehicle to align its centerline with the trailer's centerline — the car and trailer should be in a straight line. Once aligned, attach the winch cable to the car's designated tow hook or to a solid structural point on the front subframe. Never attach the cable to a bumper cover, a decorative tow ball receiver, a body panel or any plastic trim — bumper covers will tear off under winch tension. Attach to metal: the frame, the subframe or a factory tow hook. Clear everyone from behind and beside the car before starting the winch. Winch slowly and steadily, watching the car's alignment throughout the pull. If the car starts drifting toward either edge of the deck, stop the winch, push the car back and realign before continuing.

• Level ground: load on the flattest available surface — loading on a slope creates instability and a runaway risk
• Centerline alignment: car and trailer in a straight line before winching — a cocked approach causes sideways drift on the deck
• Winch attachment: factory tow hook or solid structural subframe — never a bumper cover, body panel or plastic trim
• Clear the area: no one behind or beside the car during winching — cable tension can release unexpectedly
• Winch slowly: watch alignment throughout; stop and realign if the car drifts before continuing

AWD and 4WD vehicles: all four wheels on the trailer

If the non-running vehicle is AWD or 4WD, all four wheels must be on the trailer. AWD and 4WD drivetrains mechanically connect all four wheels — when two wheels rotate during towing while the other two are stationary, the differential forces the stationary wheels to rotate as well, destroying the transfer case and transmission in the process. A car hauler or flatbed with all four wheels on the deck is the only safe transport method for any AWD or 4WD vehicle. If you're not certain whether the vehicle is AWD or 4WD, look up the drivetrain configuration for the specific model year. When in doubt, all four wheels go on the trailer.

• AWD/4WD rule: all four wheels on the trailer — no exceptions
• Flat-towing AWD destroys the drivetrain: transfer case and transmission damage; the repair cost will far exceed any savings on the tow
• When in doubt: put all four wheels on the trailer regardless of the suspected drivetrain configuration

Securing the Vehicle for Transport

4-point tie-down: how to strap it correctly

A properly secured vehicle has four straps — one at each wheel or at the frame's designated tie-down hooks — evenly tensioned front and rear. Most car hauler rentals include wheel basket straps that loop around the tire at the wheel and hook to the trailer rail. These are the simplest and most reliable method for a first-timer and don't require locating the vehicle's frame hooks. If the trailer uses chain tie-downs instead, attach to the frame-mounted tie-down hooks visible on the underside of the vehicle near each corner — the same hooks used by dealerships and transport companies.

Never attach a strap to a suspension component, brake line, exhaust or body panel. Tighten each strap until the vehicle sits firmly on the deck without rocking when you push on any corner. Then check strap tension again after driving the first quarter mile. Straps settle with movement and frequently need a second tightening before they hold correctly for the full haul.

• 4 straps minimum: one at each wheel or frame hook — front pair and rear pair evenly tensioned
• Wheel basket straps: simplest for a first-timer — loop around the tire, hook to the trailer rail
• Never attach to: suspension components, brake lines, exhaust or any body panel
• Check after a quarter mile: straps settle with movement — re-tighten if any slack has developed before continuing

Driving to the Garage

What's different when you're towing

A loaded car hauler extends your effective vehicle length by 15–20 ft and adds 4,000–7,000 lbs to your combination weight. Three things change as a result. Stopping distance increases significantly — most light car haulers don't have trailer brakes, which means all stopping force comes from your tow vehicle's brakes alone. Start braking earlier than you normally would at every stop. Turns require more space — the trailer's rear wheels cut inside your tow vehicle's path, so swing wider at every intersection and driveway entrance to keep the trailer's wheels off curbs and obstacles. And your combination is longer than you think — leave more room than feels necessary when changing lanes or entering traffic.

Surface roads are perfectly adequate for a local garage haul. There's no requirement to use a highway. Driving at 35–45 mph on surface roads gives you more time to react to traffic and is appropriate for a first-time tow. Keep an eye on your mirrors throughout the drive — the car on the trailer should be visible and stationary. If anything looks different from when you started, pull over safely and check the straps before continuing.

• Braking distance: increases substantially with a loaded trailer — start braking earlier than normal; most light car haulers have no trailer brakes
• Wide turns: trailer rear wheels cut inside your path — swing wider than normal at every turn
• Surface roads are fine: 35–45 mph on surface roads is appropriate for a first-time local haul
• Mirror checks: glance at the trailer regularly — if the car has shifted or straps look loose, pull over and check
• Backing up: use a spotter for any reversing; don't attempt to back a trailer into a space alone on your first time

When to Call a Tow Truck Instead

Your tow vehicle isn't rated for the combined load. This is a hard stop. Towing over the rated capacity is unsafe and damages the tow vehicle. If the weight math doesn't work, the rental approach doesn't work for this combination.

The vehicle is stuck in a difficult position. A car in a ditch, a parking garage, a tight urban alley or anywhere a trailer can't be aligned for a straight loading approach requires a professional with specialized recovery equipment. A rented car hauler is not a recovery tool.

The vehicle has a flat or missing tire. Loading a car with a flat tire that won't roll is extremely difficult without equipment most renters don't have. A flatbed tow service handles a flat-tired vehicle without needing it to roll.

You're doing this alone. Loading a non-running vehicle requires at least two people — one to manage the winch, one to guide and watch alignment. Solo loading of a non-running vehicle is not safe.

The haul is longer than 100 miles. At significant distances, trailer rental cost plus fuel plus your time may not be substantially less than a flatbed tow service. Get quotes from both before deciding.

Insurance and Damage Protection

Before towing a rented car hauler, confirm your auto insurance policy covers liability for towing a rented trailer, including damage to the non-running vehicle during loading and transport. Some policies extend to rented trailers; some don't — check the specific coverage before the rental day.

Eligible rentals booked through Big Rentals also include Basic Rental Protection at checkout. This added protection can help limit your financial responsibility for certain damage or theft events during the rental period. For full details on how Basic Rental Protection works, including deductibles, exclusions and renter responsibilities, review our FAQ and platform terms.

The Short Version

A rented car hauler gets a non-running vehicle to the garage at a fraction of the tow truck cost when the weight math works, the mechanical prep is done correctly and at least two people are there for loading. Confirm the trailer has a winch before booking. Check the weight numbers. Release the parking brake, put the transmission in neutral, straighten the front wheels and winch it up slowly on level ground. All four wheels on the trailer for any AWD or 4WD vehicle. Check the straps after the first quarter mile. Drive slower and wider than normal, and the car will be at the garage without the tow truck bill.

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