Trencher Rentals for Irrigation and Drainage Installs

You need to run pipe. Either irrigation laterals across an established lawn or a drainage line through a section of property that holds water after every rain. You need to rent the right machine to do it — and there are two options, not one.

Rent a vibratory plow for a clay soil site and it stalls in the first 10 ft. Rent a chain trencher for an irrigation lateral run across a finished lawn and you've created 400 ft of trench to backfill, a spoil pile to manage and a sod repair job to follow. Both machines install pipe. They do it completely differently, and they have specific conditions where each is the right tool and specific conditions where each is the wrong one.

This post covers which machine fits which application and soil type, the depth and width specs for irrigation and drainage work, what to confirm before the trencher rental day and how to finish the job after the pipe is in. Whether you're a contractor planning a multi-zone commercial install or a homeowner putting in your first irrigation system or French drain, the guidance here applies directly to your scope.

Chain Trencher vs. Vibratory Plow: The Right Tool for the Job

Chain trencher: cuts a trench, removes soil, works in all ground conditions

A chain trencher uses a rotating chain fitted with cutting teeth to cut a slot in the ground and carry the removed soil to the surface, where it deposits as a spoil pile alongside the trench. The operator sets the depth and the chain does the cutting. Walk-behind chain trenchers for residential work typically reach 18–24 in depth and cut 3–6 in wide depending on the chain configuration. Larger ride-on and tractor-mounted units go deeper for commercial drainage and extended irrigation runs.

The chain trencher works in virtually all soil conditions with the appropriate tooth configuration: standard teeth for soft to medium soil, combination teeth for hard clay, rock teeth or carbide-tipped teeth for rocky ground. It's the right machine for all drainage applications and for irrigation work in any soil condition where the vibratory plow isn't viable. The tradeoff: it leaves a trench to backfill, a spoil pile alongside the run and, on an established lawn, sod that needs to be cut, lifted, relaid and repaired.

• Mechanism: rotating cutting chain removes soil to the surface — leaves a trench and a spoil pile
• Depth range: walk-behind units typically 18–24 in; ride-on units to 36 in or deeper
• Soil versatility: all soil types with appropriate tooth configuration — standard, combination, rock or carbide teeth
• Right for: all drainage applications; irrigation in clay, rocky or root-heavy soil; applications requiring precise depth, multiple pipes in one trench or tight turns
• Tradeoff: trench to backfill, spoil pile to manage, surface disruption to repair

Vibratory plow (pipe puller): installs pipe in one pass, no trench to backfill

A vibratory plow — also called a pipe puller or cable plow — uses a blade that vibrates as it's pulled through the soil to create a narrow slot while simultaneously feeding pipe or conduit directly into that slot in a single pass. No soil is removed. The slot closes behind the blade as the machine moves forward. Surface disruption is minimal — a narrow line of slightly heaved soil that settles back over a few weeks, leaving an established lawn largely intact.

Walk-behind vibratory plows typically work to 12 in depth and handle pipe up to approximately 1-1/4 in diameter. Larger models reach 18 in. The critical limitation: vibratory plows require soft to medium soil with no significant rock, dense clay or heavy root content. In the right conditions — sandy loam, loose fill, soft turf soil — the vibratory plow is significantly faster than a chain trencher and produces far less surface disruption. In the wrong conditions, it stalls or produces erratic pipe placement as the blade deflects around obstacles.

Before committing to a vibratory plow for any run, dig a test hole 18 in deep at the site. If the soil at 12–18 in resists a manual post hole digger or a digging bar, it will resist the plow. The test hole costs 15 minutes. Discovering the plow won't penetrate the clay 50 ft into the run costs an hour and a machine swap.

• Mechanism: vibrating blade pulled through soil installs pipe directly — no trench, no spoil pile
• Depth range: walk-behind units typically to 12 in; some models to 18 in
• Pipe size limit: typically up to 1-1/4-in diameter — not suitable for large-diameter drainage pipe
• Soil requirement: soft to medium soil only — sandy loam, loose fill, soft turf; fails in dense clay, rocky ground and root-heavy soil
• Right for: irrigation lateral lines in suitable soil — faster and far less disruptive than chain trenching in good conditions
• Wrong for: drainage applications (requires wider trench for aggregate); clay, rocky or root-heavy soil
• Test hole first: dig 18 in by hand before committing to the plow — if the soil resists a digging bar, it will resist the blade

Irrigation Installs: Depth, Width and Machine Selection

Irrigation depth: install below the frost line for your region

Irrigation pipe must be installed below the freeze depth for the region. Water left in a line above the freeze depth expands when it freezes, splits the pipe and requires excavation to repair — often in spring, through an established lawn. Warm-climate regions with no meaningful frost (most of Florida, coastal Southern California, South Texas, Hawaii): 6–8 in is sufficient to protect pipe from surface damage and UV exposure. Moderate frost regions (mid-Atlantic states, Midwest transitional zones, Pacific Northwest): 12 in minimum — confirm the local frost depth for the specific installation address. Cold-climate regions (upper Midwest, Northern Plains, Rocky Mountain areas): 18 in minimum; some areas require 24 in.

The local cooperative extension service or a quick search for "average frost depth [county/state]" gives the number for the specific location. For homeowners doing a first install: err on the deeper side within the equipment's range. Going 2 in deeper than required costs nothing. Going 2 in shallower than required can cost the entire pipe run after the first hard winter. For contractors: confirm against local code requirements before bidding the install — irrigation depth codes vary by municipality and some jurisdictions have specific minimums.

• Warm climates (no meaningful frost): 6–8 in
• Moderate frost regions: 12 in minimum — confirm local frost depth
• Cold climates (upper Midwest, Northern Plains, Rocky Mountain): 18–24 in — confirm local requirements
• Homeowner rule: go deeper within the equipment's range; undershooting is an expensive repair
• Contractor note: confirm against local code requirements before installation

Trench width for irrigation pipe

Irrigation trench width is determined by pipe diameter and whether multiple pipes share a trench. Most residential lateral lines run 3/4-in or 1-in poly pipe — a 3-in-wide trench is adequate. Mainlines in residential irrigation typically run 1-in to 1-1/2-in poly — a 4-in trench covers the pipe with enough room to maneuver the pipe into place at junction points. Commercial mainlines in 2-in or larger diameter need a 6-in trench. Running multiple pipes in the same trench — mainline and laterals together, or electrical conduit alongside the pipe for valve wiring — requires additional width; plan 6–8 in for a two-component run.

For vibratory plow installations, trench width is essentially not a planning variable. The blade width is fixed at approximately 1 in and the pipe diameter — typically up to 1-1/4 in for vibratory plow installations — determines compatibility, not trench width. The pipe feeds through the blade assembly and into the slot as the machine moves.

• Residential lateral (3/4-in or 1-in pipe): 3-in trench
• Residential mainline (1-in to 1-1/2-in pipe): 4-in trench
• Commercial mainline (2-in or larger): 6-in trench
• Multiple pipes or conduit in one trench: 6–8 in
• Vibratory plow: approximately 1-in blade width — pipe diameter compatibility determines viability, not trench width

Machine selection for irrigation by scope and soil

For residential irrigation laterals in soft to medium soil — the majority of residential lawn irrigation installs — the vibratory plow is typically the faster and less disruptive choice for lateral runs. The pipe goes in, the surface heaves slightly and settles back over a few weeks, and there's no backfill operation. Reserve the chain trencher for the mainline run (larger pipe diameter than vibratory plows handle cleanly), the feeds from the mainline to valve box locations, any lateral segments that cross difficult soil zones and tight turns where the plow's turning radius becomes a constraint.

For a full residential install, many contractors use both: the vibratory plow for lateral runs in good soil and the chain trencher for the mainline and any sections where soil conditions or pipe size eliminate the plow as an option. On rocky or heavy-clay sites, the chain trencher handles the full install. For large commercial irrigation installs where walk-behind speed is a constraint, a skid steer or compact track loader with a trencher attachment covers extended runs across large turf areas more efficiently than either walk-behind machine.

• Soft to medium soil, irrigation laterals: vibratory plow — faster, far less surface disruption
• Mainline runs and valve box feeds: chain trencher — larger pipe diameter, precise placement at junction points
• Rocky or heavy-clay sites: chain trencher for the full install
• Mixed-condition sites: vibratory plow for laterals in good soil zones, chain trencher for the mainline and problem areas
• Large commercial installs: skid steer with trencher attachment — more efficient than walk-behind for extended runs across significant acreage

Drainage Installs: French Drains, Catch Basins and Surface Drainage

French drains: chain trencher only — the vibratory plow is never the right tool

A French drain collects subsurface water through a perforated pipe wrapped in filter fabric, set in a trench lined and backfilled with drainage aggregate — clean crushed stone or washed gravel. The trench must be wide enough to accommodate the aggregate bed around the pipe. That width requirement — typically 6–12 in — is why the vibratory plow is never the right tool for a French drain. A vibratory plow produces a slot approximately 1 in wide. No aggregate fits in a 1-in slot. Chain trencher only.

For a standard residential French drain — intercepting surface and subsurface water from a wet area, foundation perimeter drainage, downspout collection — a walk-behind chain trencher set to 6-in width and 18–24-in depth handles the install. Wider or deeper runs may require a larger machine. The perforated pipe for residential French drains is typically 4-in corrugated pipe in a filter sock; some installations use 4-in perforated PVC for longer service life.

• Vibratory plow: never appropriate for French drains — 1-in slot cannot accommodate aggregate
• Trench width: 6–12 in — enough to place aggregate bed around perforated pipe
• Trench depth: 18–24 in for most residential French drains; deeper for foundation perimeter drainage
• Pipe: 4-in perforated corrugated pipe in filter sock, or 4-in perforated PVC
• Backfill: clean crushed stone or washed gravel — native soil in the aggregate bed reduces drainage effectiveness

Catch basin and surface drain outlet runs

Catch basin installations collect surface water from low points — depressed lawn areas, driveway low spots, patio corners that pool runoff — and route it to a daylighting outlet through solid drainage pipe. The outlet pipe is typically 4-in or 6-in corrugated or solid PVC, run from the catch basin to a point where it can drain freely to the surface or into a storm system. Depth depends on the catch basin's installation depth and the outlet elevation — typically 12–30 in for residential applications.

A walk-behind chain trencher at 4- to 6-in width and 18–24-in depth covers most residential catch basin outlet runs. The catch basin pit itself — the excavation that receives the basin body — is often better handled by a mini excavator or by hand depending on the basin size, since the trench machine can't excavate the wider pit the basin body occupies. For drainage work that requires depths beyond 24 in, long outlet runs or precise depth control across grade changes, a mini excavator rental is the right supplementary tool.

• Pipe: 4-in or 6-in solid corrugated or PVC — solid, not perforated, for catch basin outlet runs
• Trench: 4–8 in wide, 12–30 in deep depending on pipe diameter and outlet elevation
• Catch basin pit: wider excavation than the trench machine produces — handle by hand or mini excavator
• Outlet: must daylight at an elevation lower than the catch basin — confirm outlet location and elevation before digging

Slope: the most commonly missed drainage specification

Every drainage component — French drain, catch basin outlet, surface drain line — must slope continuously toward the outlet. Water doesn't pump itself. The minimum effective slope for any drainage pipe run is 1% grade: 1 in of vertical drop per 8 linear ft of horizontal run. Less than 1% allows sediment accumulation and reduces flow capacity over time. More slope is always better until the trench depth at the inlet becomes impractical.

For homeowners installing a first French drain or catch basin: this is the specification most commonly skipped, and it's the reason most DIY drainage systems that "don't work" don't work. A French drain installed at flat grade collects water with nowhere to go. A catch basin outlet that runs slightly uphill toward the outlet backs up in the first rain.

Before starting the trencher: stake the full run from inlet to outlet, measure the elevation difference between the inlet stake and the outlet stake and confirm it equals or exceeds 1 in for every 8 linear ft of run. For a 40-ft French drain run, the outlet must be at least 5 in lower than the inlet. Confirm this with a line level or a laser level along the stakes before cutting. Set the slope at the trench — adjust depth along the run to maintain the required grade. Don't rely on backfill to correct a slope problem after the pipe is in.

• Minimum slope: 1% grade — 1 in of vertical drop per 8 linear ft of horizontal run
• Stake before cutting: mark the full run, confirm outlet elevation vs. inlet elevation before starting the machine
• Set slope at the trench: vary the trench depth along the run to maintain required grade; backfill can't correct a slope problem
• Too flat: sediment accumulates, flow capacity drops, system underperforms over time
• No slope or reverse slope: system doesn't function — water has nowhere to go

Soil Conditions: How They Determine Machine Choice

Soil type reference: what each ground condition supports

Dig an 18-in test hole at the site before finalizing the machine choice. What the soil looks and feels like at 12–18 in depth — not at the surface — determines viability for the vibratory plow. Surface topsoil and subsoil are frequently very different. A soft turf surface over dense clay subsoil will stop a vibratory plow cold after the first few inches of penetration. The test hole costs 15 minutes and eliminates the most common machine-mismatch failure.

Sandy or loose soil: ideal conditions for a vibratory plow. Fast installation, minimal surface disruption. Chain trencher also works without difficulty but offers no advantage for irrigation lateral work over the plow.

Sandy loam and soft turf: vibratory plow for irrigation laterals; chain trencher for drainage. Both machines work; the plow is faster and less disruptive for irrigation.

Firm loam and moderate clay: chain trencher is the reliable choice. The vibratory plow is marginal in firm loam — it may work in short sections but slows significantly and produces inconsistent pipe placement if the blade begins to deflect rather than part the soil cleanly.

Dense or wet clay: chain trencher only. The vibratory plow stalls in dense clay. Wet clay also causes chain trencher trench walls to collapse — install pipe and backfill in short sections rather than digging the full run before installing. Don't leave a wet-clay trench open overnight.

Rocky ground: chain trencher with rock teeth or carbide-tipped teeth. The vibratory plow cannot penetrate rock. Confirm the tooth configuration for rocky soil with the rental partner at booking — the standard chain isn't appropriate for rock, and not all rental units carry rock chain.

Root-heavy soil near established trees: chain trencher only. The vibratory plow blade deflects on roots and produces unpredictable pipe depth and placement. Plan for chain trencher on any run that passes through or near an established tree's root zone, regardless of the general soil condition in the rest of the run.

If the vibratory plow stalls mid-run: back out, switch to a chain trencher for that segment. Don't force the plow through resistant soil — blade deflection results in pipe at irregular depth and potential pipe damage at the transition point.

• Sandy/loose soil: vibratory plow — ideal; chain trencher also works but no advantage for irrigation
• Sandy loam and soft turf: vibratory plow for irrigation, chain trencher for drainage
• Firm loam and moderate clay: chain trencher — vibratory plow is unreliable in this range
• Dense or wet clay: chain trencher; install and backfill in sections, don't leave open trench overnight
• Rocky ground: chain trencher with rock or carbide teeth — confirm tooth configuration at booking
• Root-heavy soil: chain trencher regardless of general soil conditions in the area
• Plow stalls mid-run: back out, switch to chain trencher for that segment

Before You Rent: Site Prep and Planning

Call 811 before any ground penetration — not optional

In the United States, 811 is the national utility locate service. Call 811 or submit a locate request online at call811.com at least two to three business days before any digging — the required notice period varies by state but is typically two to three business days, and some states require more. Utility companies will mark the location of underground gas, electric, water, sewer, cable and telecom lines with color-coded flags or marking paint. A chain trencher or vibratory plow striking an unmarked underground gas line or power cable is a serious safety emergency. The locate is free. It is a legal requirement in every state before any ground penetration.

For homeowners: the 811 locate covers public utility lines to the property. It does not cover private lines on your property — the water service lateral from the meter to the house, private irrigation lines installed by previous owners, private drainage lines and any other utility that runs from the public right-of-way connection across your property. These lines are the homeowner's responsibility to locate. Use a probe, a hand excavation or a private locating service if uncertainty exists about private line locations on the property before trenching.

• Call 811 or submit at call811.com — two to three business days before any digging
• Public utilities marked: gas, electric, water, sewer, cable, telecom
• Private lines not covered: water service laterals, private irrigation, previous-owner drainage — homeowner's responsibility to locate
• Striking a gas line or underground power cable is a life-safety emergency — not a repair inconvenience
• The locate is free: no cost, no reason to skip

Planning the run before the machine arrives

Map the full pipe run before the rental day. Mark the inlet point, the outlet or connection point and the path between them with marking paint or stakes. For irrigation: locate valve box positions, sprinkler head locations and the mainline path. Knowing where the mainline runs before digging prevents the lateral trenches from crossing the mainline at inconvenient angles. For drainage: stake the run from inlet to outlet, confirm the outlet location and elevation, calculate the required grade and mark the required trench depth at each stake along the run.

Measure total linear footage and match it to the rental window. Walk-behind chain trenching covers approximately 100–300 linear ft per hour in moderate soil at 12-in depth — faster in soft soil, significantly slower in clay or rock. Vibratory plow installation in good soil runs 300–600 linear ft per hour. Have all pipe, fittings, filter fabric and aggregate staged at the work site before starting. Stopping mid-run because material hasn't been delivered ties up the rental period, leaves an open trench and creates a trip hazard on an active work site.

• Mark the full run: stakes or marking paint from inlet to outlet before the machine arrives
• Confirm outlet elevation: verify the outlet is lower than the inlet by the required amount for drainage runs
• Measure linear footage: match to rental window — chain trencher at approximately 100–300 linear ft/hour; vibratory plow at 300–600 linear ft/hour in good soil
• Stage all materials before starting: pipe, fittings, filter fabric, aggregate on-site before the first pass
• Note obstacles: utility flags, tree root zones, hardscape crossings — plan the machine path around them before starting

Equipment Sizing: Walk-Behind vs. Larger Equipment

Walk-behind units: residential irrigation and drainage

Walk-behind chain trenchers are the standard rental equipment for residential irrigation and drainage installs. They typically reach 18–24 in depth, cut 3–6 in wide depending on the chain configuration and are maneuverable enough to work in most residential yards around landscape beds and near structures. Walk-behind vibratory plows work at similar scales — typically to 12 in depth, handling pipe up to 1-1/4-in diameter.

Both are manageable for a capable homeowner or a two-person crew without specialized training. Review the operator manual before the first pass — chain trencher operating direction and depth adjustment controls vary by unit. Confirm the chain configuration with the rental partner at booking: standard chain for soft to moderate soil is different from rock or carbide chain for hard clay or rocky ground, and not all rental units carry both.

• Walk-behind chain trencher: to 18–24 in depth, 3–6 in wide — residential irrigation and drainage
• Walk-behind vibratory plow: to 12 in depth, pipe to 1-1/4 in — residential irrigation laterals in suitable soil
• Manageable for homeowners: both operable without specialized training; review operator manual before starting
• Confirm chain configuration at booking: match to confirmed soil conditions — standard, combination or rock/carbide teeth

Larger equipment: commercial installs and extended drainage runs

Ride-on chain trenchers and tractor-mounted trencher attachments cover commercial irrigation installs, long drainage runs and residential projects where walk-behind depth or speed is a constraint. A ride-on trencher at 36-in depth covers deeper French drain installs and commercial mainline runs that exceed what a walk-behind completes in a rental day. Skid steer and compact track loader trencher attachments are efficient for large commercial turf irrigation across significant acreage — the machine covers ground faster than any walk-behind, and the track or tire configuration handles the larger sites more practically.

For drainage work requiring depths beyond walk-behind capability, or for catch basin pit excavation requiring precise depth control and a wider opening than a chain saw chain produces, a mini excavator handles the scope more effectively. On large drainage projects, the equipment plan often includes both: the chain trencher for the pipe run and the mini excavator for the basin pit and any depth adjustments that require broader excavation.

• Ride-on chain trencher: to 36+ in depth — commercial drainage, deep French drains, extended residential runs
• Skid steer trencher attachment: efficient for large commercial turf irrigation across significant acreage
• Mini excavator: deep drainage beyond chain trencher range; catch basin pit excavation; precise depth control on grade-sensitive runs

After the Trench: Backfill, Compaction and Surface Repair

Backfilling a chain-trenched run

The spoil pile alongside the trench goes back in after the pipe is laid and positioned — but not all at once. Backfill in 6-in lifts, tamped between each layer with the back of a shovel or a hand tamper for small residential trenches. Dumping the full spoil pile back in a single pass produces a loose, poorly compacted fill that settles visibly over the first growing season, leaving a sunken depression along the trench line.

Over-fill by approximately 2 in above the original grade. The backfilled soil will settle over the first few weeks — a slight crown at the trench line that settles to flush grade is the right outcome. Under-filling produces a visible depression. For drainage trenches with aggregate backfill: fill aggregate to the specified level around the pipe, lay a layer of filter fabric over the aggregate surface before adding topsoil and bring the final fill to grade with native soil. Confirm pipe depth at several points along the run before backfilling — pipe that shifted during installation may be shallower than planned at some sections, and correcting depth is far easier before backfill than after.

• Backfill in 6-in lifts: tamp between each layer — don't dump the full spoil pile in at once
• Over-fill by 2 in: the surface will settle; a slight crown now becomes flush grade after the first season
• Drainage backfill: aggregate to specified depth, filter fabric layer over aggregate, topsoil to grade
• Check pipe depth before backfilling: confirm installation depth at several points — much easier to correct before backfill than after

Surface repair: chain trencher vs. vibratory plow

Chain trencher surface repair on an established lawn works best when sod handling is planned before the trencher starts, not after. Before starting the trencher, cut a clean sod edge on both sides of the trench path with a flat spade. Lift the sod strips in manageable sections and set them aside during installation. A sod strip stepped on and compressed during the installation day can survive a day off the ground if watered slightly. Backfill the trench to within 1 in of grade before replacing sod — the sod itself adds approximately 1–2 in back to final grade. Replace sod, tamp lightly, water for two weeks.

Vibratory plow surface repair is minimal by comparison. The installation leaves a narrow line of slightly heaved and disturbed soil across the turf. Lightly tamp any significantly lifted sections immediately after installation. Water the disturbed zone and allow two to four weeks for re-establishment. The surface heave is normal and settles without intervention in most cases. Reseeding the narrow plow line is rarely necessary through established turf — the main exception is at the machine's entry and exit points where the blade makes its full penetration from the surface, which disturbs a small area more significantly than the run itself.

• Chain trencher sod prep: cut clean edges before trenching, lift and set aside, relay over backfilled trench, water two weeks
• Backfill depth before sod replacement: 1 in below grade — sod adds 1–2 in to final grade
• Vibratory plow surface: slight heave along the run is normal — tamp any raised sections, water, allow two to four weeks to re-establish
• Reseeding after vibratory plow: rarely needed through established turf; entry and exit points may need minor attention

Quick Decision Guide

Irrigation laterals, soft to medium soil, established lawn: vibratory plow — installs pipe in one pass with minimal surface disruption.

Irrigation mainline or valve box runs, any soil: chain trencher — larger pipe diameter and precise placement at junction points.

Irrigation, dense clay or rocky soil: chain trencher — vibratory plow stalls in dense clay and cannot penetrate rock.

French drain installation: chain trencher only — vibratory plow cannot produce a trench wide enough for aggregate.

Catch basin outlet pipe run: chain trencher at 4- to 6-in wide, 12–30-in deep — confirm outlet elevation before cutting.

Drainage at depth beyond 24 in or requiring precise depth control: mini excavator — walk-behind chain trenchers max out at 18–24 in.

Large commercial irrigation install across significant acreage: skid steer or compact track loader with trencher attachment — faster coverage than walk-behind machines.

Any application, before starting: call 811, dig a test hole, confirm soil type at depth, stake the run, verify outlet elevation for drainage, stage all materials on-site.

Insurance and Damage Protection

Before operating a rented trencher or vibratory plow, confirm your homeowner's or business insurance covers liability for property damage during the installation — including damage to underground utilities not located by the 811 process, damage to adjacent landscaping and any third-party property damage. For contractors: confirm the rental equipment is covered under your contractor's equipment coverage or that the rental's Basic Rental Protection covers the scope of the installation work.

Eligible rentals booked through Big Rentals also include Basic Rental Protection at checkout. This added protection can help limit your financial responsibility for certain damage or theft events during the rental period. For full details on how Basic Rental Protection works, including deductibles, exclusions and renter responsibilities, review our FAQ and platform terms.

The Short Version

Two machines, two applications, one rule that covers both: match the machine to the soil and the pipe diameter before booking anything. Vibratory plow for irrigation laterals in soft to medium soil — faster, far less surface disruption, no backfill. Chain trencher for everything in difficult soil, all drainage applications and irrigation mainlines. Call 811 before any digging. Dig a test hole before committing to the vibratory plow. Mark the slope before starting any drainage trench. Backfill in lifts, over-fill by 2 in and plan the sod repair before the trencher starts, not after. The installs that go wrong go wrong in the planning stage, not the digging stage.

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